21/04/12 Day 2. Roncavelles – Zubiri. 21.5km


The lights came on at 06.00 on the dot with shouts of “up and away” although I think some had left already. We took it easy packing and were away by 08.00.

No breakfast is served at this albergue or indeed in the village as far as I know so we walked to Burguete which is about 3.5km away and had a very pleasant breakfast there with some other pilgrims. At this stage of the Camino we are all getting to know each other and we meet some of the same people a few times a day, normally at cafes.

Today we planned to walk to Bizkarreta which is 11.5km away and have an easy day but again when we arrived there at 11.00 we decided to keep going to Zubiri, another 10km away. We had some very steep climbing after this to the top of Carrovide and the rain came down with a passion. As we neared the top we saw a large black man who appeared to be sleeping at the side of the trail, he assured us he was ok, just resting. His name was James and he was from Los Vegas.

The walk down to Zubiri was very steep and was literally flowing with water and mud caused by the torrential downpour.

We finally reached Zubiri at 15.00 and stopped at the first albergue but it was booked out. The very kind lady there advised us not to stay at the municipal albergue but to try another albergue around the corner which we did.

This one is called Albergue El Palo de Avellano and is a really nice albergue with very helpful staff. The rooms are code locked with ten beds per room and two shower rooms and toilet en suite. Josh and Sara were here as well, they got here at 12.00. They are walking very fast.

The pilgrim meal here was very good and we had a good laugh over dinner. James, who we met sleeping on the track ended up in our room. He is walking to Pamplona with his wife, who is from Dublin, and then they fly to Ireland for a holiday. He told us he had never seen so much rain in all his life. He is 72 yrs old. He walks separately from his wife so she ended up in a different albergue. Scottish Dave also showed up.

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